Kids Go to Armenia, Eat String Cheese, Eggs, & Halva

To the kids staying with us, the cuisines of the Caucasus are as unfamiliar as Bajoran or Ferengi cuisines would be.  But today marks the anniversary of the 1990 Armenian Declaration of State Sovereignty -  it was yet one more of those wheezing, gasping death rattles to come out of the failing Soviet Union.  We'll ask the kids to find out and tell us what they can about Armenia - it's one of those Unimagined Far Away Lands that offers unfamiliar but reasonably kid-friendly foods - starting with the much-loved Armenian string cheese.  It's our destination for a Happy Hour and for an Egg Night dinner.  Lots of VietnAmerican parents do buy those American versions of string cheese for their kids - the plastic mozzarella in plastic tubes - but it's a treat to see them meet and fall for the real thing - and puzzle over that big knot of cheese till they realize they have to unbraid it.  

For a Happy Hour of drinks, small bites, and a poorly supervised game of volleyball with few rules or expectations, kids can have Pomegranate-Lemonade Spritzers or Apricot Nectar, and we'll have some Armenian Iced Tea on hand.  Grownups who want something stiffer are welcome to some Armenian Brandy & Sodas - tall and on ice.  Our main plate at dinner is going to be simple, but there are some decent mezes which we'll set up in the yard for our young guests:

• Pistachios (in the shell - make the kids work for them)
  
  
• Lavash & Pita (store-bought)
  
  
• Armenian Eggplant Spread
  
• Armenian Bean & Walnut Pate (recipe previously posted)
  
• Armenian String Cheese
  
• Spinach-Cheese Borags - Armenian version of Byorek or Spanakopita
  

Our main plate tonight is Parsley, Onion & Eggs, like an thin omelette or an egg crepe, plated with Zucchini Pancakes.  Dessert is just as it would be in Armenia in August, lots of melons - but also some Semolina Halva w/ Pine Nuts.  It's not like the tahini-based halvas widely sold in the US.  In the Middle East, West and Central Asia, North Africa, the Balkans and the Caucasus, there are a LOT of versions of halva, including some made with roasted flour, semolina, cornstarch, etc.  This one is a bit like a sweet polenta dessert.  Young guests won't have ever seen anything like it.

Armenian coffee is the same as Turkish coffee, though Armenians might march to war over me saying so - but it's almost always the same style of coffee throughout all of the old Ottoman Empire.  Increasingly, people call it by almost any name that avoids use of the word 'Turkish' - Bosnian coffee, Greek coffee, Cypriot coffee, etc.  We'll make something every bit as strong as Armenian or Turkish - but make it well in advance and then serve it filtered and icy cold and just barely sweetened.  With a splash of Armenian brandy, maybe.  After dinner, out on the porch, maybe some backgammon  It's still somewhat popular in Armenia, but not so much here.  Like too much of life, the great game of backgammon has been reduced to an app on a phone. So one can play all by oneself. 


       



Pomegranate-Lemonade Spritzers, from Claire Robinson
http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/claire-robinson/pomegranate-lemonade-spritzer-recipe-1948652

Yield:   4 servings 

Ingredients
    1 1/2 cups pomegranate juice
    1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus lemon wheels for garnish
    1/2 cup sugar
    Seltzer water, for mixing

Directions

Pour the pomegranate juice into an ice cube tray and freeze overnight. Put the lemon juice and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer; cook, stirring, until sugar is completely dissolved. Cool to room temperature.

To serve, fill a tall rocks glass with 3 to 4 pomegranate ice cubes. Pour about 1/4 cup of the lemon syrup over the ice and top off with seltzer. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Stir gently, garnish each glass with a lemon wheel and serve.

Cook's Note: This recipe is easily doubled or tripled for a crowd

       



Armenian Iced Tea, from Robyn Kalajian
http://www.thearmeniankitchen.com/2010/05/armenian-iced-tea-tay-chai.html

You don’t even need tea leaves to make iced tea. All you need, really, is cold water, fresh, aromatic herbal plants, some spices to jazz things up, and sweetener, if desired. If you grow your own herbs, that’s great. We don’t have a traditional garden, just containers on our patio filled with a variety of herbal plants, such as mint, basil, and lemon grass.

To make 8 cups of Armenian-style tea, you’ll need:

8 cups cold water
2 cinnamon sticks
about 4 whole cloves
3 to 4 tea bags (optional)
sweetener to taste, if desired

1. Place the water in a large pot. Tie the cinnamon sticks and cloves in cheesecloth; place in the water. Bring to a boil; simmer about 10 minutes.
2. Remove pot from heat; remove the cheesecloth with the cinnamon sticks and cloves, and discard.
3. Add tea bags to pot, if using, and allow to steep about 5 minutes. Discard tea bags. Add desired amount of sweetener, if using; stir until sweetener is dissolved.
4. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
5. To serve, pour in tall glasses filled with ice.

Variation: Mint Iced Tea

For minty iced tea, follow the same instructions as above, EXCEPT: add about 1 cup of fresh mint leaves, slightly crushed to release their flavor, or two tablespoons of dried mint (tied in cheesecloth) to the boiling water, and eliminate the cinnamon and cloves. Remove tea bags, and strain mint leaves before adding sweetener. Sweeten as desired. Serve with ice. 

(Simon's note:  Blended herbal teas seem popular, so that's what we'll use.)

      



Armenian Ikra - Eggplant Spread, from Cook the Hell Out of It
http://www.cookthehelloutofit.com/2012/07/armenian-ikra-eggplant-dip.html

Makes about 3 cups.

What You Need:
5 medium-sized eggplants, roasted, peeled and chopped
4 ripe tomatoes, halved, roasted, peeled and chopped
2 green bell peppers, quartered, roasted, peeled and chopped
1 white onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 small (8 ounce) can tomato sauce
Salt, pepper and dried chile flakes to taste
Extra-virgin olive oil

How To Do It:

    Preheat oven to 375°F.
    Puncture the eggplant with a knife and place on a baking pan.  Cut the tomatoes in half and peppers in quarters (remove stems and seeds) and place on another baking sheet.  Roast in the oven for 35-45 minutes, turning once. Eggplants should be charred and very soft when done. 
    After cooked, peel the eggplant, tomato and peppers. In order to easily peel the eggplant, place it in a plastic resealable plastic bag for a few minutes. The steam will loosen the skin.
    Chop the eggplant, tomatoes and peppers and fine as you can get it. 
    Add a few tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil to a medium skillet.  Saute the chopped onion fine and garlic, stirring often, until very soft and translucent, about 15 minutes. 
    Add chopped eggplant, peppers, tomatoes and tomato sauce to the skillet and stir.  Season with salt, pepper and chili pepper flakes.  (You can also add a roasted grilled jalapeno for added spice.) Add a tablespoon of olive oil.
    Use some elbow grease and mash all of it up well while its cooking.  We used a metal hammer meant to tenderize meat, but you could also use the back of a wooden spoon or a potato masher. 
    Taste again and adjust seasoning to your preference.
    Cover and cook until the Ikra is thick and most of the liquid has been reduced, stirring often.  This will take about 30 minutes.  If it seems too dry, stir in a little more olive oil while cooking. 
    Serve hot, room temperature, or cold with pita chips or sliced pita bread. 

       



Borag - Bereg - Boreg - Byoreks, from Nartouhe Hourdadajian
http://www.thearmeniankitchen.com/2009/04/borag-bereg-boregthey-all-spell.html

Yield: approx. 30 appetizers

Ingredients:
8 - oz. Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (Muenster cheese can also be used)
1 - 15 oz. container ricotta cheese
4 oz. feta cheese, crumbled
1 egg, slightly beaten
1- 1 lb. pkg. Fillo dough, thawed
Melted butter, about 1/2 stick

Filling Directions:

1. In a bowl, combine the Monterey Jack, ricotta, and feta cheeses with the beaten egg, blending well.
2. Set aside.

Fillo dough Preparation:

Take the dough out of the refrigerator about 15 minutes before using.
Once fillo dough is exposed to air, it dries out very quickly, becomes brittle, and is impossible to use. Be sure to have plastic wrap and a damp towel ready to cover the dough to keep it pliable while you fold the borags.

Folding the Borags:

1. Cut the fillo dough in half, lengthwise. Use one half sheet for each borag. Cover the other sheets first with plastic wrap, then the damp towel, while folding each borag.
2. Fold each half sheet in half lengthwise. Brush surface with melted butter.
3. For each borag, place a spoonful of filling at the end of the folded dough that’s closest to you. Begin folding, as though you were folding a flag - on the diagonal from corner to corner, creating a triangular shape. If there is extra dough at the top, just trim it off or tuck it under.
4. Continue to do this until you run out of filling - or dough.
5. Keep the folded borags covered with plastic wrap.

NOTE: At this point, you can prepare the borags for freezing by placing them in a plastic container large enough to hold the amount you are preparing, making sure you use plastic wrap or waxed paper between each stacked layer to prevent the borags from sticking together. Cover
tightly with the lid, label, date, & freeze.

Baking the Borags:

1. Melt about ½ stick of butter.
2. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
3. Brush the top of each borag with melted butter.
4. Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown.

What do you do with leftover fillo dough? Return it to it’s original wrapper, seal it tightly, and store it in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Leftover cheese filling can be spread on bread then heated under the broiler. There’s raw egg in the mixture, so cook before eating!

Cheese Borag Bites

1.Use the same cheese filling as above.

NOTE: Instead of using regular fillo dough sheets, use prepared mini-fillo cups (sold in packages of 15). They can be found in the freezer section of most grocery stores.

2. Fill each cup almost to the top with the filling. The amount of cheese filling given in this recipe will fill about 3 boxes of the mini-fillo cups - about 45.
3. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 10 - 12 minutes.

Variation: Spinach Borags

Filling:
    1- 10 oz. pkgs. Frozen, chopped spinach, thawed and drained
    2 eggs, beaten
    ½ lb. cottage cheese, drained
    ¼ lb. feta cheese, crumbled
    ½ cup chopped parsley
    ½ cup chopped scallions
    3 Tbsp. fresh dill, chopped

Combine all of the ingredients thoroughly.
Follow the steps above for filling and baking the borags.

       



Parsley, Onion & Eggs, from Robyn Kalajian
http://www.thearmeniankitchen.com/2009/04/parsley-onion-and-eggs.html
　
Ingredients:

4 to 6 eggs
1 diced medium yellow onion (or 1 cup chopped green onion)
1 bunch parsley, chopped
olive oil
salt
pepper

Directions:
1. Beat the eggs until smooth.
2. Slowly heat a 10-inch skillet with just enough olive oil to sauté the onion until slightly soft.
3. Add the sautéed onion and the parsley to the egg and beat again until blended.
4. Add salt and pepper to taste.
5. Reheat the skillet with about 1/8 inch of oil, being careful not to let the oil smoke.
6. Test by adding a few drops of egg mixture to see if the oil is ready.
7. Slowly pour in enough egg mixture to make a thin sheet slightly thicker than a crepe and about six inches across.
8. Turn once, cooking until slightly brown on each side.
9. Remove and place on a paper towel to absorb excess oil. 


      



Zucchini Pancakes w/ Yogurt-Garlic Sauce, from Robyn Kalajian
http://www.thearmeniankitchen.com/2011/09/zucchini-pancakes-adapazari-favorite.html

Ingredients:
2 cup zucchini, grated
3 Tbsp. grated onion
3 Tbsp. chopped parsley, optional
3 eggs, beaten
3 Tbsp. flour (if mixture looks a bit thin, add a little more flour as needed)
1 Tbsp. baking powder
1 ½ tsp. salt, or to taste
1/2 tsp. Black pepper, or to taste

NOTE: Feel free to add your favorite seasonings to the batter for added flair.

Olive oil, for frying

Directions:
1. Rinse and gently scrub squash; do not peel. Pat dry. Remove both ends of the squash and grate. Place grated zucchini and onion in a colander and press to squeeze out as much excess moisture as possible.
2. In a mixing bowl, combine the zucchini, onion, eggs, parsley (if using), flour, baking powder, salt and pepper until well-blended.
3. Add enough olive oil in a skillet to coat the bottom. When hot, spoon about 2 Tbsp. of the mixture for each pancake into the skillet and flatten. Do not crowd the skillet. Cook 3 to 5 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Add oil as needed. Continue until all of the mixture is used. Drain pancakes on a plate lined with paper towels.
4. Serve hot or at room temperature. May be served with a dollop of plain yogurt or yogurt-garlic sauce.

Yogurt-Garlic Sauce

Ingredients:
16 oz. plain yogurt
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons lemon juice
salt to taste

Directions:
1. In a small mixing bowl, combine yogurt, lemon juice, garlic, and salt. Mix well.
2. Chill until ready to serve, allowing flavors to blend. Can be refrigerated for up to 5 days.

      



Semolina Halva with Pine Nuts – Irmik Helvasi, from Ozlam Warren
http://ozlemsturkishtable.com/2013/06/hearts-beating-fast-for-turkey-semolina-halva-with-pine-nuts-for-the-home-feel/

The semolina halva, Irmik Helvasi, is amongst the foods  that is dear to my heart. I love the comforting Semolina (Irmik) halva and its inviting aroma takes me right back home. Semolina Halva is also the traditional dessert during religious occasions and Holy Nights in Islam, where it is customary to share the halva with family and friends.

Irmik Helvasi, Semolina halva is one of the most well known halvas in Turkey. Halva (helva) signifies good fortune and is made not only during religious festivals, but also events like moving houses. It is also traditional for a bereaved family to offer semolina halva to friends when a family member passes away.

Although Irmik helvasi, Semolina Halva, is made with such simple ingredients like semolina, butter, sugar and pine nuts, it requires skill to get it right and is regarded by some as a culinary masterpiece. The silky blend of buttery semolina with crunchy pine nuts offers such a wonderful blend of texture and taste; the dust of cinnamon over halva complements really well too.

Many versions of semolina halva are available in different cuisines; Turkish version of semolina halva uses coarse semolina, rather than the semolina flour. You can find coarse semolina in Turkish, Middle Eastern shops; even at shops specializing in Mediterranean cuisine. In the US, the online Turkish store Tulumba.com also carries coarse semolina.

Adapted from Ghillie Basan’s The Complete Book of Turkish Cooking

Serves 6-8

110gr/4oz/1/2 cup butter
60ml/4 tbsp light olive oil
450gr/1 lb. /scant 2 ¾ cups coarse semolina – irmik –
45ml/3 tbsp pine nuts
900ml/1 ½ pints/ 3 ¾ cups milk – whole milk preferred-
335gr/12oz/1 ½ cup sugar
10 ml/ 2 tsp ground cinnamon to decorate
15ml/1 tbsp sautéed pine nuts to decorate – optional

Melt the butter and olive oil in a heavy pan, stir in the pine nuts and semolina and cook over a medium heat, stirring all the time, until lightly browned.

In the same time, warm the milk in a separate pan and stir in the sugar, mix well and let the sugar dissolve. Turn the heat off once the milk is hot (but not boiling) and sugar is dissolved.

Pour the milk & sugar mixture into semolina & pine nuts mixture and lover the heat. Mix well and cook over low heat until the milk has been absorbed; stirring continuously for about 10-15 minutes. Turn the heat off. Place a paper towel over the pan and cover with the lid, let the helva rest for about 10 minutes – the paper towel will absorb all the excess moisture-.

If you like, sauté 1 tablespoon pine nuts in a drizzle of olive oil for a few minutes. Spoon the semolina halva into individual bowls, and serve with a dust of cinnamon and a few sauteed pine nuts over them.


(Simon's note:  This recipe is Turkish in origin, but this type of halva is equally Armenian.  We might add raisins to ours, but they'll be plumped raisins.  Possibly plumped in Armenian brandy.)